Throughout my time in Sri Lanka I’ve two targets: to go to the American ambassador (who’s certainly one of my best-good mates and I’ll brag about her till the day I die) and drive a tuk tuk. After spending just a few days with my pal and her bodyguards in her armored BMW, I strike out by myself and hire my dream economic system automotive—a basic shitbox. Or shit-triangle, because the case could also be.
Driving a Tuk Tuk in Sri Lanka
What the heck is a tuk tuk?
The three-wheeled tuk tuk is a cross between a motorbike and a really small automotive. Its entrance wheel is steered by a set of bike handlebars, whereas the facility goes to the 2 rear wheels through a 4-speed handbook transmission. It has a canvas roof, roll-down plastic doorways for rain, and a windshield with a single wiper blade. A bench seat within the rear takes up all the 51.0-inch width and the entrance has a single seat. Its tiny 200-cc engine is nice for 10 hp and a modicum of torque. A number of firms make them, however mine was manufactured by Bajaj out of India.
A rental firm delivers my tuk tuk within the beautiful fort city of Galle and sends somebody to point out me the ropes. To begin it, I simply flip the important thing and provides it a tiny little bit of gasoline. I attempt to rev it exhausting at first and my tuk-tuk tutor provides me a verbal slap on the wrist. I’ve virtually flooded the engine.
Like a standard bike, the correct foot operates the brake and the clutch is manipulated by the left hand. Nonetheless, there isn’t any brake lever for my proper hand and no gear lever for my left foot. As an alternative, gear modifications are carried out by twisting the left deal with, and, sorry, however the one brake is up entrance. Good luck!
Like a motorbike, impartial could be robust to search out, however shifting into reverse is the true pickle. To get going, I’ve to shift into impartial, interact an enormous lever that pushes down from the sprint, after which put the tuk tuk in first. Truthfully, it’s simpler to simply get out and push. This factor weighs lower than 800 kilos, in any case.
I’ve few luxuries right here—seat belts, for one, but in addition a USB port and a mobile phone holder that’s virtually safe.
I get some good apply within the practically car-free walled part of Galle. Sri Lankans drive on the left facet of the street, and it takes me a sizzling second to get used to it, typically straying to the correct facet whereas I consider shifting. Regardless, I’ve Google Maps downloaded offline and my objective is to simply drive and see what occurs. My solely plan is to be at my subsequent resort in time to benefit from the pool for some time.
Driving a Tuk Tuk in Sri Lanka
First drive: Tuk tuk to tea
I resolve to go to the Handunugoda tea plantation, traversing the two-lane street that runs alongside the coast line. If texting and driving is harmful within the States, it’s double jeopardy right here. Lanes are mere ideas and other people use all out there area to get to their vacation spot. Stray canines dart onto the street frequently, folks flip in entrance of me, and if I’m not being handed by a bus belching out diesel smoke then I’m caught behind one, respiratory the fumes.
The roads to the plantation are all paved, however issues get a bit extra dodgy on the best way to my resort. First, the street will get tough, then barely vast sufficient for my tuk tuk, then all pavement disappears, changed by rutted mud.
“That’s advantageous,” I believe. “I’m a podium-winning off-road driver. I can deal with this.”
I downshift and gun it—possibly somewhat an excessive amount of. I’m driving like I’m making an attempt to get a heavy-duty truck as a substitute of a light-weight runabout by way of the mud. Some mud splatters into the door-less cabin and the rear slides round only a contact, however the tuk tuk handles it like a champ.
Driving a Tuk Tuk in Sri Lanka
Get to know the locals
The subsequent day the tuk tuk brings me on a brand new journey with just a few locals. A fruit vendor retrieves my cellphone when it bounces out of the tuk tuk on a busy avenue. As a thanks I purchase a watermelon, throwing it into the small storage space behind the rear seat. I don’t actually have a strategy to eat stated watermelon, however what the heck. It might come in useful as a bargaining chip later.
A bit farther down the street I cease to talk with a bunch of tuk-tuk drivers and I’m instantly surrounded by a dozen dudes, peppering me with questions. The place am I from? Why am I driving a tuk tuk? How do I like Sri Lanka?
Certainly one of them decides he’s going to check my driving abilities. He jumps within the backseat and directs me out to the busy four-lane avenue. After I don’t sign quickly sufficient he reaches over my shoulder to flip the change. He chides me for driving too quick however praises me for my right-hand turns into visitors. The subsequent factor I do know I’ve apparently agreed to get him a visa to come back to America. I don’t suppose my sarcasm is known by the Sri Lankans. The poor man may nonetheless be ready for me to come back again and marry him.
Driving a Tuk Tuk in Sri Lanka
Oops, I stalled it once more
Later that day, my confidence buoyed by the skilled tuk-tuk driver’s reward, I resolve to take the lead in a right-hand activate to a busy avenue. Driving on the left facet of the street means a proper flip takes me throughout visitors. Often I simply wait till one thing greater can also be making the flip, then I simply go together with them. This time, I lead the pack. And I stall it.
I’m principally sitting in visitors like a rock with vehicles flowing round me making their proper turns and a giant ol’ truck looming towards me in a broadside place. I panic a tiny bit and attempt to restart the tuk tuk.
Why gained’t it begin?
Ah shit! I’m in first gear. Okay, impartial, impartial, impartial! How do I put it in impartial once more? I can see the truck driver’s eyes now. There isn’t a anger or annoyance. It’s like he runs over dumb Individuals who can’t drive day-after-day.
I get the tuk tuk began and scoot out of his method simply in time, however I’m sweating like a mofo and my coronary heart goes a billion miles a minute. Time to loosen up with a $12 therapeutic massage on the native ayurvedic spa.
Driving a Tuk Tuk in Sri Lanka
Tuk tuk terrific
I cherished driving the tuk tuk for the sense of freedom it gave me, but in addition as a result of it introduced me a bit nearer to the locals. Would I ever have had the prospect to joke round with a bunch of drivers had I not been driving the three-wheeled shit triangle? Most likely not. Driving a working-class car, feeling the humidity within the air, smelling the curry, listening to the myriad horns in visitors as of us made their method across the island was infinitely higher than being ensconced in my ambassador pal’s air-conditioned luxurious SUV. Was it harmful? Meh. Possibly. Even after I stalled in visitors, native drivers simply went round me. The large truck would have finished the identical had I not gotten going once more. Even touring as a single lady I by no means obtained harassed or felt unsafe. The folks had been pleasant and curious.
Whereas the fee to hire a tuk tuk in Sri Lanka can begin as little as $14 per day, my three-day journey was a bit extra. My journey plans meant I couldn’t decide up or drop off the car on the major workplace, in order that was a $70 upcharge on both facet. My brief rental interval value me $90. I additionally paid the rental firm $40 to acquire my Sri Lankan driver’s license. All instructed, I spent $270, and my $150 deposit was refunded.
Electrical tuk tuks are additionally out there, however I didn’t need the additional stress of determining easy methods to cost. I do not know what number of miles I drove in whole, however the little man took 4 liters of petrol after I was finished, or a couple of gallon. I paid $1.10 per liter, rather less than what I pay for gasoline in California.
I cherished my tuk tuk a lot I instantly signed up for one more journey, this time for 12 days driving a tuk tuk throughout India with The Adventurists. It can undoubtedly be tougher, climbing the Himalayas in that tiny factor and hauling round tenting gear and three folks, however love makes folks do some fairly dumb issues.