In case you have a useless battery in your previous automotive after you let it sit in a single day with the battery cables attached, you clearly have a …
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Rusty fuse connections.
A lot of rust on that fuse box!
Watch longer utube videos first. This isn’t wrong, but it’s missing a few important things
Some old regulators must be grounded to test or work.
That fuse panel brings me back to the simple days of my youth
And my fuse blew…..
the best thing to get for these is a current clamp like the unit ut210e , it has a precise current clamp with the lowest range of 2amps and if are into eeprom reprograming you can upload a modified code to unlock full potential off the chip and measure upto 600amps dc . with that tiny clamp.
Or…or..it's the dimmer.
lol what the heck is a voltage regulator. I've never seen anything like that on any of my cars. I have a 97 grand Cherokee and a 92 Astro van with a parasitic draw.
It could also be your car alarm system that draws juice from the battery when you're not using the car. It just like lazy people who have automatic car starters that draws juice to when you're not running it 😮 even my Polaris ATVs in my RZR has a alarm system but if I don't use them within six to seven days the battery goes dead without a trickle charger connected to the battery😮
A 194ci? That's probably in a 1960s Nova. Two most common electrical problems for them was the voltage regulator and the small wire from the battery positive terminal. Good Luck, Rick
I believe that's an early Chevy Nova 194 6 cyl in the video. Very nice!!!
Never buy a Ford, problem solved. Just joking, nice method of tracking down a draw.
That’s a Walmart meter haha but yes definitely chap asf
Clean battery terminals and battery case can save some small losses as well.
peterbilt.
29mA is not a large draw.
Start with the HIGH amp scale first just in case or you could blow the fuse in the meter or worse.
Ya, you should start out on the highest amperage scale or you could damage your meter (maybe fuse blown). Then work your way down.
You can also use a test light – one end to the neg battery cable and the other end to neg battery post
And even cheaper way is substitute the DVOM with a light bulb. If it’s bright, you have a large draw, remove fuses till it goes dim of off. Ditto with alternator stuff.
No. Do not set your ammeter on milliamps when you are testing for current. Set it on amps and make sure you do not have enough current to damage the meter before trying lower ranges. Also, 29 milliamps is not nearly enough current to discharge the battery overnight or in a week. A 40 AH battery (typical) would take about 1400 hours, or 58 days, to discharge at that rate. Keep looking for the problem.
Man it’s nice to see all that room around that engine bay
The good old days!
My car has 5 fuse boxes
Actually, that digital multimeter is the cheapest one that you can get at Walmart lol. Hyper tough. Is Walmart brand😂
super explanation