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FINALLY GOT THE SPECIAL TOOL TO FIX THIS. However the debate continues on learn how to forestall it. #shorts
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Break it free,get out the penetrating oil,soak em,tighten back up,loosen them back up,soak and repeat until it feels like butter
Heat it up first to loosen it while hot
Always cold. I don't know why people are telling you hot.
Do they make something like that for the hemi eagle heads? Would have saved me paying to have the exhaust manifolds done
Hey hash tag man that's good info Thanks !
Thx for the videos they're very good. Those drill inserts are hardened steel bushings so they'll never wear out
What caused it?
Keep us updated bubba 🤘
I Weld a washer and then I nut to the broken studs even if they’re an 8th inch inside the cylinder head and get them out every single time. Stop drilling in the cylinder heads. I have been an auto technician for 32 years and I don’t drill in the heads and I have had to fix stupid mistakes when people drill in the cylinder heads and go into a water jacket. Stop drilling in the heads.
Is that a Miller special tool? A guy in my shop is fighting with one of those, I figured this would be an issue with the recall that was released
They say hindsight is 20/20 but that's not possible when it comes to exhaust manifold studs. I spray wd40 and apply antisieze before using a ratchet to break em loose or break em flush. Works every time half the time!
Looking forward to see how it works out
Tolerance is an issue to tight
I dealt with this a few weeks back on a 200. Lucky bo broken studs bud had to retap each whole theards pulled
Sad that it happens enough they made a tool
I’ve got a similar tool for the LS V8. It’s a lifesaver but you can’t drill the firewall bolts with the engine in the mounts. 😕
Great solution for your situation 😃
Had some luck with the engine running. Had only one of them break.
Hot enough to be uncomfortable to work on not hot enough to burn you and make you wait until it cools off some don't heat soak I have done three a day just to avoid heat soaked a way I have had about the same effect is to use a torch on a cold engine just heating the head of bolt too cherry red and re heating when getting stiff but best way was to warm engine till it was hot enough to be really uncomfortable but workable and taking out the ones that come out without too much trouble and let set to cool down when back to room temp heating again and working on the next few I have taken 3 days this way and made it problem free buy most can't hold up a bay or are impatient so that's what I have
JT, I have an ‘89 Dodge Dakota and I got the exhaust manifold bolts off the studs, got the flange bolts out and it’s still stuck on there. How do you get it off when it’s literally adhered itself to the head?
“In other words.. That’s BAD”
When removing very siezed bolts you have to work them 2 steps forward one step back. Like you would if you were tapping a new hole. If it won't even break loose you can do the same thing and eventually it will break loose
I've done a dozen recalls so far. U90
Mini airhammer with the 3/8ths attachment and you won't have that problem again
When I discovered the attachment, been my best friend ever since lol
Something that'll help, when the threads start binding while coming out, turn it back in a couple rotations, then start backing it out again. Repeat as necessary. I personally have yet to ever snap a bolt.
I weld nuts on if the break is above the surface or close enough to it to get on the bolt.
Mig weld a bolt to the broken stud. The heat will help break loose the steel/ aluminum corrosion, now you’ll have something to grab onto. I used to do it all the time with EGR valves with bolts that would break off.
Good luck
Yes, that is a drill/tap guide. I always use a guide on the low tolerance stuff.
Bmw uses copper nuts.
Aluminum head I’d stay cold and hope for the best! Luckily it’s aluminum so drill/tap won’t be all to bad
Before starting hit it with a lubricant. In a clean room we only have 100% IPA or water. Alcohol is very thin so it penetrates well. If there is some kind of lubricant it prevents shearing. Also working it back and forth a bit otw out while adding more lubricant to ensure no metal on metal shearing.
😎
use torch to warm bolt up to
Did this on my 2013 genesis 3.8 head bold threads . Cons of an aluminum block
Well the problem is some dumb a put his hands on it
Every mechanics nightmare, particularly a shade tree mechanic like myself. 👍🏼✌🏼
They always want you to buy specialty tool you hardly ever use.
When the bolt start to tighten up turn it in the opposite direction. Do this often and you will never break a bolt off again. The corrosion breaks up and binds between the bolt and the surface it's being removed from. Spinning the bolt in the opposite direction frees this up allowing for the removal of the bolt.
Did you try heating the studs and the letting candle wax melt into the threads? Works with rusty bolts, ask my 68 c15 how I know
I have to ask are you a dealership mechanic????
Anti seize and heat
I would try totally cold. Back when aluminum heads became popular there was a GM engine that the spark plugs would seize if you tried to take them out hot. The 2.8 or 3.1 I think.
Wish I had that when I was rebuild my 5.4 Triton!
Hashtag shorts
Bro your camera is making me nauseous.
Keep up the good work, always like to see your work and hear your comments.
This tool is the jam! Nice straight perfect holes and threads every time… When doing the recall for the maniverter, I make sure the vehicle is left over night in my stall racked up and ready to go. I’ve found that if the bolts and cylinder head are given ample time to cool down, you’ll wreck less. The stainless bolts take significantly longer to cool down. I also use a Milwaukee m12 right angle drill. Makes life easy especially with the variable trigger.
you'll never prevent it as it is caused by oxidation of the Alloy
Post the repair videos
This guy…. terrible mechanic….
Back and forth red hot with a hand wrench